Camino Tech

I’m a techie… been in IT for almost 40 years now. Tracking stats, maps, and things are all fun things for me. They aren’t for everyone, and that’s OK. Everyone has their own Camino and one is no better than another. I have always used tech on my Caminos. Researching, mapping, GPS tracks, health and distance stats, etc. Many ask which tools to use, and there are as many tools and ways to use them as there are Caminos. But here’s what I have used and what I like…

Fitness Tracker

I use an iPhone 13 Plus and Apple Watch Ultra 2. They just work. I particularly like that all of my files, photos, and information I use on a day-to-day basis is automatically backed up to the cloud and synced on all of my devices. If I lose my phone, I haven’t lost any data, and I can be up and running as soon as I replace it. The one thing I don’t like about my Apple Watch is that if its misting outside, or because I am a surdo (left-handed), buttons or the screen get pushed/tapped and stop my workouts and tracking. I have just recently found a way to overrule this – put the watch in “Water Lock” mode where it locks the screen and buttons so they can’t be inadvertently tapped or pushed. I think this will solve my problem.

Mapping Software

Gaia Pro

MapMyFitness

As for software for fitness tracking, I use MapMyFitness by Underarmor. I have used many others, but have settled on MapMyFitness. There’s not really anything I like about it more than the others, they are all underwhelming – that is to say, I haven’t found anything better about any of the others to make me want to change and lose my history, or have to migrate my history.

For generic mapping software, I use GaiaPro. This is a pretty advanced application that has a myriad of map styles and sources to choose from. There are even base hiking maps with the Camino routes already on them. Standard features are routing, off-line maps, route tracking, photo insertion, etc. I also use it for other things like my CritterCam projects with the California State Parks.

Gronze.Com

Gronze.com is an online mapping tool that is specific to the Camino. It’s in Spanish/Castellano, and has the official routes documented. I primarily use it for the other information it contains, which I will talk about later.

Google Maps. I use google maps whenever I am overseas, as I find that it has the best/most accurate database of businesses, transit, etc. that I might need while I am traveling. I like Apple Maps better, but it’s not as good as Google Maps overseas.

WikiLoc

Wikiloc – this is similar to All Trails, but it’s more widely used in Europe than All Trails – or seems to be. This is both good and bad. There are sooooo many trails that have been uploaded by so many people, it’s difficult to filter just what you need. You can download routes to your phone and watch if you want to do that. But for routing, I like to put my devices on mute and route by the yellow arrows. While I like tech, I’m working on being present more…

Camino Specific Apps

Gronze.com is a Spanish Language site that has detailed information on most Camino routes including albergues, places to eat and get supplies, history, route steps and information, attractions, etc. It seems endless the amount of information they have. Very useful. My main gripe about Gronze.com is that it’s not an app. You have to have internet access and it can be hard/slow to navigate on a small screen. But the amount of information available is probably the best of the apps I’ve been exposed to.

Wise Pilgrim

Wise Pilgrim Apps (one for each route). This is a great set of tools. They offer much of the same information as Gronze.com, but it’s in an app, offline, and in English. It’s quick to navigate and they have done a really good job at improving it over the years.

These tools provide trail profiles, details about which trails and services are open/closed, and they also provide a forum where users can post updates which WP can incorporate into their database.

Transportation

Don’t forget transportation and how to get around. Google Maps is a good starting place, but I quickly found that it was inaccurate and incomplete. I have yet to find a complete tool that encompasses most forms of transportation in Spain. I have, however, downloaded BlaBlaCar -again-. In 2015, I took a ride share from Madrid to Pamplona and it cost me something like €12. A bus ride from Bilbao to Bayona, Fr, on Google Maps was going to take 4-6 hours and cost €40. On Uber it was going to be something like €350. On BlaBlaCar, it cost €5.99 and will take 2hr 20min on a bus. There are other transport apps like RENFE (train), Alsa (bus), etc, but those are sometimes hard to navigate if you don’t know the exact stations you need to be at/go to.

Caveat

You always have to have a caveat as there are those people who like to argue and insert their toxicity behind the anonymity of the internet. These are only some of the tools I have used, and the ones I am taking on my trip this year. If I find others, I will look at them. Tools that I have used in previous years are no longer on my phone as I found these work better for me. Make your Camino your own, find the tools that work best for you.

A list of my Caminos

Each Camino is different. They offer different climates, cultures, food, terrain, history, etc. The Camino Frances, which is the best known of the published routes, runs for about 790km and has mountains, plains, forest, cities and towns, single track to asphalt. It also offers arguably the most flexible route as far as the frequency and distance between places to stay and eat. It is a beautiful route, but because it is the most widely known route, it’s not my preference. Not that I wouldn’t walk it again, but there is so much more to see, that I would prefer walking other routes over this one.

On the opposite, is the Camino Olvidado. It runs between Bilbao and Ponferrada (Camino Frances) for 489km and is some of the most remote paths that I have encountered to-date. Many towns do not have complete services and many albergues are sporadically closed. One must plan to walk this route and you would be luck to encounter another pilgrim. It is a solitary trail, but offers some of the most beautiful countryside of any of the caminos.

My favorite so far has been the Camino Primitivo between Oviedo and Melide (Camino Frances) and runs 261km. This route has a nice blend of mountains, forests, rivers, villages and towns, and people. It is better known than the Camino Olvidado, so it has more services, but it is arguably more strenuous than the Camino Frances. It’s a good balance.

Year	Camino	From	To	Distance	Terrain	People (Other pilgrims)
2015	Frances	Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port	Santiago	790km	Mountain, plains, forest	100’s per day
2016	Norte	San Sebastian	Santander	245km	Costal, Mountains	15-30 per day
2016	Primitivo	Oviedo	Melide/Santiago	311km	Mountains, forest, farms	Typically no more than 20 per day
2017	Portugues (Costal)	Lisbon	Santiago	630km	Mountains, Oak Savana, costal, cities & towns	20-40 per day
2022	Olvidado	Bilbao	Ponferrada	475km	Mountains, forests, farms	<10 entire route (three when I did it)
2022	Invierno	Ponferrada	Santiago	260km	Mountains, forests, rivers, towns	10-15 per day
2024	My Custom Route (Norte->Vadiense->Olvidado->Salvador->Primitivo->Frances)	Bayona->Comillas->Cistierna->La Robla->Oviedo->Melide->Santiago	Santiago	1006km	All of the above	All of the above

My Routes and Overview

Camino de Santiago 2024

This year I will embark on yet another Camino walk. This will be my fifth time there, and walking six different routes this year. This year will also be my longest walk exceeding 1000km or 600 miles. About half of this year’s route will be new to me, and the other half, will be on previously walked trails.

The Camino is a unique experience, even between companions, each one will have a different experience, challenges, and take-aways. There is a saying on the Camino: Your camino starts when you reach Santiago. The tomb Santiago or Saint James of course being the typical destination, located in the north-western corner of Spain, in Galicia, in the city of Santiago de Compostela. The most known route is the Camino Frances which runs from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the south western part of France, and travels 790km to Santiago. This was my first Camino in 2015. I physically suffered during this Camino, but I got hooked, and returned to walk the Camino Norte and Camino Primitivo in 2017, then the Camino Portuguese in 2017, and then the Camino Olvidado in 2022.

This year, I will start in Bayona France, and walk the Camino Norte along the cost of the Bay of Biscay for 16 days. Of these 16 days, six will be new to me. After the 16 days, I will then head south and cross the Cantabrian Mountains on the Camino Vadiniense – all new to me – for eight days. I then connect to the Camino Olvidado in Cistern for two days – which I have walked before, and then head north for five days on the Camino Salvador – new to me – to once again cross the Cantabrian Mountains to the city of Oviedo. From Oviedo, I head south west to cross the Cantabrian Mountains one more time on the Camino Primitivo for 11 days (I’ve walked this route before), and then finally in the town of Melide, I connect with the Camino Frances for the final three days. That’s a total of 45 days on the trail, and lots of coast, but mostly mountains. The route is roughly the neon green highlighted in the map below.

I plan to share my journal on this blog of this Camino as I have shared other adventures. I leave California on April 24th and will start walking a few days later. Feel free to ask questions, and share the blog to anyone who might be interested.

As we say on the Camino… Buen Camino!

Post Adventure Thoughts

I have been back for just shy of four weeks now and usually when I travel, I have some type of “culture shock” or revelations. In this case they are revelations. These are mostly comparisons between Mexico and the United States. They are also similar to what I have experienced in the past coming back to the US.

Police Corruption – it’s present, but not the norm

While we got stopped several times by the myriad of different types of police in Mexico, I was actually only harassed one time. Yes it was stressful, but I got out unscathed. I was warned about the police in this town and their ties to the cartels, so it’s not surprising.

What is important to note, is that on our last day in Mexico, traveling from Saltillo to Eagle Pass, TX, we pulled out of our hotel, but there were large orange cones in the driveway. These can mean anything in Mexico, so I simply had them moved and we drove onto the boulevard in front of the hotel. Except that it was crowded with pedestrians, joggers, and cyclists. Evidently, they close many roads every Sunday to traffic and let the people “own” the streets and use them for exercise and just getting out without having to worry about the traffic. A novel idea.

It was closed however, and as I was turning right to get off the boulevard at the first intersection, I got waived down by a young police officer. I knew this could be problematic, so I preemptively opened my window and before he had a chance to say anything, I greeted him and asked him how to get off this boulevard and explained the situation. He asked for my license, told me what I already knew and then told me to pull over to the street I was already turning onto. After about 5-10 minutes, he said he needed to give me a ticket, but it was obvious he didn’t really want to, so I asked to talk with his supervisor. About 10 minutes later his supervisor pulled up in a pickup truck and I got out and talked with him for another 10 minutes. Again taking the initiative to state the obvious, then I asked him if he could escort us out of the city as we couldn’t wait for the road to open as we had an appointment with Banjercito at the border for paperwork. He too stated he should give us a ticket, but then I asked again for an escort and he obliged. Escorting us about five miles to where there would be no more road closures, he turned around and waived us on.

In our travel stories, we don’t talk about the good interactions with police too much, but every other interaction I had with them, whether it be on the street walking and asking for directions, asking for questions about their town, or being stopped for standard inspections – was a positive experience. They are there just doing their jobs.

I got harassed only once out of the twenty or so interactions I had with the police in Mexico. The one time I got harassed, it was in a known cartel collusion area, I was warned, and I was driving a foreign vehicle. In the end, they let me go my way without any issues other than 60-90 minute delay in my day, and it really didn’t impact me other than the time I was stopped.

So, while we are warned and talk about police corruption in Mexico, and it most definitely is present, they are in the minority and most police officers are just doing their job and are happy to talk to/with you. They are people too.

Mexican vs US Drivers

In Mexico, driving has you on your toes. I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous, and from my anecdotal experiences driving over 25,000 miles in Mexico over the years, I would venture to say that Mexican drivers are actually better drivers than those in the US. Here is why I have come to that conclusion:

In Mexico, you will encounter topes or speed bumps on every type of road from cul-de-sacs, to country lanes, to boulevards, to major national autopsists or toll roads. They can be anything from white lines painted on the road way causing vibrations to jolting six inch tall asphalt tire/suspension-destroying humps that are unmarked.

On the contrast, there are also potholes on every roadway in varying states of decay, depth, and diabolical properties that will give you spinal compression fractures as you are launched out of the pothole and back onto the roadway for a final suspension-misalignment treatment.

There are also the narrow (think country lane) two-lane highways that have no shoulder, but instead have a 5-500′ drop off on one side and immoveable trees encroaching on the highway so you can’t use the entire lane. As you encounter these narrow lanes, you must add the pot holes and topes. So you see oncoming traffic swerving all over the road in front of you playing chicken at 100-120 kph (60-70 MPH).

The speed limits are subjective. The reality is that the road conditions dictate the speed limit plus some. If you go any faster, you will destroy your car.

We also have animals to contend with… dogs, chickens, donkeys, horses, cows, etc. My favorite [sic] are the pigs in the trucks being taken to slaughter. The pack so many pig in the trucks with open siding (just barriers to keep them in) that you can smell the pig trucks for miles before you reach them to over take them. As you are over taking them my suggestion is to do so as the fastest speed possible (well beyond the safe speed for road conditions). The reason for this is that if you take your time in passing these trucks, of the 200-300 pigs on board, of the 10% or so that have their asses pointed to you, one of them will inevitably defecate or urinate all over your vehicle.

Back to the other animal hazards, they are usually not in pastures or tied up. So they roam the roads freely. After all, it’s easier to walk on a road than through rocks and brush. When they are tied up, they are tied up so close to the road, that they will often be laying down on the road and sleeping – until you get close then they will suddenly jump up and run to the end of their tether – in the middle of the road.

Now let’s get to city drivers… traffic lights – pshhh – who needs them. Painted lane lines on the street… pshhh, let’s make our own lanes… blind curves, narrow streets, topes, potholes, livestock… you get the picture.

Now here’s here it gets interesting. Mexicans learned how to drive in these conditions. They are ever-alter and rarely distracted with cell phones, eating in their cars, putting makeup on, shaving, reading, autonomous driving cars, etc. They are reactionary drivers and they are good at it. They take it in stride. For the most part, it’s all part of the commute and just another day.

Because Mexicans are reactionary, offensive, and then finally defensive drivers, they are good drivers. They know how to avoid accidents. In all of the miles we drove this past summer, we saw… TWO accident. The first was where a double gasoline trailer driver fell asleep and ran off the road into a muddy field. There were two tow trucks there trying to extricate it out of the field. The second one was bad, it was a single vehicle accident where the long haul truck driver… fell asleep and the truck went off of one of those aforementioned embankments, overturned and was completely destroyed. The local townspeople were there collecting free cans of Coke and doing the highway department a great service by cleaning up the mess.

In contrast, I have been back in the states for just under four weeks and I have seen countless accidents on the freeways and have only driven about 800 miles. The other thing I have seen is road-rage. People are angry… They want to take it out on anyone. A delivery van and Dodge Charger racing down the freeway weaving in between traffic, driving on the shoulder all because the Charger “cut the delivery driver off”

Because of all the strict traffic laws and the threat of citations, people in the US mostly obey the laws. Because of this, they have time to be distracted. They are on their phones, eating fast food, shaving, having their Teslas drive them, etc. They have forgotten how to drive. So when there’s something out of the norm, they don’t know how to react. The results are no reaction and an accident, or over reaction and an accident.

Because of this, I have come to my subjective conclusion that Mexican (and for similar reasons, most other countries in the world) are better drivers than those from the United States. We pretty much suck at driving. Even good drivers in the US are bad drivers in Mexico. We just don’t have the skillset to be reactive drivers and pay attention – it’s more important for us to answer that text, eat those fries, and put makeup on instead of driving.

Day 94 – The Journey’s End

We departed on this journey in mid-May with the intent of seeing much of Mexico. To add to the previous trips and to get an idea for areas we would like to settle. In this respect, this journey did not disappoint.

Now that we have been on the road for 14 weeks, we are now headed back north and then west. We are caught going through the desert and the southwestern US in August, the trip will be hot – triple digits all the way, and fast – to avoid the heat, we (I) will be driving 8-12 hours per day for a week. It will be brutal.

Camping at El Chico National Park

Things Learned

One of the things that we learned, or re-learned, is that it’s no fun traveling on the coast and desert in the middle of the summer. The first three weeks of the trip we experienced 100º+ on a daily basis. There was a time where my inverter had problems and the air conditioning didn’t work – brutal. Then when we got to our destination, we stayed inside where it was cool, only to venture out at dusk. What we learned was that to travel and enjoy the coast and the desert, one must travel during the winter months. We knew this already, but due to schedules, etc. we were forced to live through it again – and reinforce what we already knew.

Another thing that we knew – and this is subjective, is that the RV parks are, for the most part, just fine to stay in. Sure there are issues, but after being on the road for 14 weeks, that should be expected. We had power, water, and sewer hookups most everywhere we went, and when we didn’t, it wasn’t a big deal, we found solutions.

Police corruption is a thing! However, between the two of us, only one bribe was paid (within 100m after crossing the border, Gary paid out). One big caveat, we are now headed north to Texas, and I would expect 2-3 stops and possible searches on a daily basis. This is not corruption, this is the Mexican Government and Cartels (for where there are no police for reasons unstated) making sure people are not smuggling things north. I expect there to be x-ray machines, manual searches, and canine searches. I do not expect corruption.

As for corruption, in order of degree, EDOMX – the State of Mexico – are the most corrupt. There they told me they were going to impound the bus for “smoking” – all the while we were passed by cars with blown engines, trucks billowing smoke, etc.

Next would be the State of Hidalgo – here is where Gary’s truck and trailer were: too big, too long, too heavy. He agreed to everything they asked for: to pay a fee, to have license confiscated, to have to pick up the license on Tuesday, then Wednesday, etc. The only thing he asked for was a receipt. That frustrated them to all get out. The police officer got tired of standing in the rain trying to get an edge, but Gary didn’t give him one.

Finally, the state of Sonora. It’s supposed to be a “no hassle” zone for foreign plated vehicles, but they got Gary with a “radar” gun that was probably never calibrated and decades old. They got him at the border, he was following me, but they liked how he tasted more than me. As we were just entering the country, Gary chose to pay out. Now he would do it differently.

The Good…

There are so many things that were good about this trip and that are good about Mexico. They are too numerous to mention here, but visit the rest of the blog and you can read about them there. However, I do want to say that after everything, I WILL BE BACK. The people, culture, art, food, history, geography, etc. are amazing. I love cultures from Latin America, and Mexico is near the top. I cannot say enough good things about Mexico and the things we have seen and done here. Some of my posts may seem negative, and sure, we find things that are less than desirable, but they are far fewer and far less important than the good things we have experienced.

Relocation

One of the reasons for this and previous trips has been to scout out regions where we feel we would like to relocate in a few years. Our goldilocks zone is the altiplano or highlands, between 1500 and 2500 meters in the mountains. Luckily for us, this is the majority of the country – from Durango in the north, all the way to the Guatemalan border to the south – on the interior of the country.

Our other key points of concern are:

• A mid-size city – 150K-1mln people
• An international airport within one hour
• decent infrastructure
• culture

We previously identified five areas where we would like to visit. They included Morelia, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Puebla, and Guanajuato. Of the five, my personal top two would be Cholula in Puebla and San Cristobal de las Casa in Chiapas. I can see at least two more trips to validate them.

Closing

I don’t think I will be posting any more on this blog unless something exciting happens between here and home. I would like to thank all of you readers who followed along as your involvement helped me document this trip for revisiting in the future.

Day 93 – San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende

Quinceañera

Mineral de Pozos

MdP is a PM near SMdA – about 40km. It is another mining town, but this time it is located in the high desert. Much of the agriculture are nopales. They say this is a large dairy area, but I haven’t seen any cattle.

This is a very small town, the city center is about six square blocks, and from what we could tell, there’s not much else to the town. The first thing we did was to bump into a gallery of pre-hispanic musical instruments. This was a -really- cool gallery, we were encouraged to pick up all displays and play with them – and to buy them if we so wanted. We wanted… After talking to the proprietor about the different instrument makers, etc., I bought two instruments. One is a rattle made of seed pods from Flor de Maguey. This one sounds like a babbling brook, rain, or water. It’s really cool and fun to play. The other one that I bought is a rain stick – made from mesquite and cactus spines. Inside, the little rocks fall on the spines and since none of them are the same, each spine sounds a little different. You can hear the individual drops of rain from this instrument.

This is a very small town, the city center is about six square blocks, and from what we could tell, there’s not much else to the town. The first thing we did was to bump into a gallery of pre-hispanic musical instruments. This was a -really- cool gallery, we were encouraged to pick up all displays and play with them – and to buy them if we so wanted. We wanted… After talking to the proprietor about the different instrument makers, etc., I bought two instruments. One is a rattle made of seed pods from Flor de Maguey. This one sounds like a babbling brook, rain, or water. It’s really cool and fun to play. The other one that I bought is a rain stick – made from mesquite and cactus spines. Inside, the little rocks fall on the spines and since none of them are the same, each spine sounds a little different. You can hear the individual drops of rain from this instrument. Alongside my Hopi flute, they go quite well.

One of the attractions of Mineral de Pozos is all of the mines. There are over 500 mines in the municipality, most of them unbarricaded and ripe to fall in for any unsuspecting soul. We took a tour which have no regulation other than you must wear a hard-hat. Your safety is your problem, the guides cannot be responsible for you. If you only have three beers to take down into the mine, it’s not enough, you need more, etc, etc. Along with the mines is a Jesuit site to see. It’s ruins now, but it’s pretty incredible. Talk about open mines…

Jesuit Ovens

Open mine

Open mine

Mine vent and observatory

Observatory

Dolores de Hidalgo

My wife texted me the other day and asked me to pick up some talavera pots. I asked at the RV Park office where to get some and the girl at the front desk pointed me to Dolores de Hidalgo – another Pueblo Mágico about 30km away.

Off we went, with the sole intention of buying pottery. When my wife sent me pictures of what she wanted, the pictures also had the prices in USD. When I got to the stores, I realized the prices were about 10-15% of the prices in the US. So I bought some pottery. The bus is full, my wife will be happy. The most challenging thing of the day, was how to fit all of the pottery I bought into Gary’s truck – the Ford Super Duty F-350 truck… I didn’t worry about it fitting into my bus – it’s a school bus after all.

This town was a little desert town. Not much about it other than the Talavera pottery. Except…

This town is where Padre Hidalgo, a Catholic priest who championed for the indigenous, meztico, and poorer Spaniards alike, cried for Mexican independence in 1865. While his movement was short lived due to his capture and murder, he is known as the father of Mexican independence. He is a much celebrated historical figure and his “Grito de la Independencia” was given in Dolores de Hidalgo.

Day 86 – Tequisquiápan

Coming down from 9500′ in elevation, it was nice to settle once again around 7000′. Even though it’s still high, I felt I could breath a bit better.

This town or small city was quite nice. Located in the Goldilocks zone for climate. The City Center was about 20 square blocks and was extremely clean. The town is famous for Art, Cheese, and Wine. Of which I sampled and bought some of each. This is a town that I could live in. Colonial style architecture, clean, close to a major airport, not-too-small-not-to-big, lots of trees, etc.

This town is also the geographical center of Mexico. They are proud to have that distinction and celebrate it.

This RV park wasn’t really an RV park – it was another balneario and while there was electricity and water hookups, there were no sewage hookups. After camping for three nights, and staying here for three nights, we needed to empty the tanks. I asked the park management if they had a port we could dump into, he suggested the creek. Kind of a repeat of the conversation I had in El Chico. They finally got me in contact with a local septic pumping service who came out to assess the situation. He didn’t have a way to hook up to us, but he did help us identify the sewer man hole cover in the street and helped us dislodge it from years of neglect. The day we left, we popped the sucker open and dumped… quite the sight. We knew that this might be an issue/option for us and we were -mostly- prepared for it.

El Pizote did however, become the instigator in mischief… as the man hole cover was popped open, the hole went down about 5 meters. The walls were -covered- in cockroaches of all sizes. I prodded Gary to spray the coc… wash down the walls with his grey water. I’ve never seen so many cockroaches run into the daylight and onto the street before in my life. As I was standing a ways back to avoid the wonderful smells of Gary’s grey water, I was largely unaffected by the cockroach swarm. Gary and Rocco, on the other hand started dancing, stomping, and squealing like… While this story is true, as always, editorial liberties have been taken – take it for what it’s worth.

Bernal de la Peña

BdP is a small town about 20km outside of Tequis. It is a quaint little town with castles, a natural monument and pastries. It reminds me a little bit of Solvang, CA. We drove out to the BdP in the afternoon and were treated to a relaxing stroll around town to take in the sights and smells.

We parked on a side street and as always, I am first to hop out – many times before the truck has come to a stop. The first thing I noticed were all of the bakery smells wafting through the air. My natural reaction was first to salivate, and then to find the closest bakery, which happened to be around the corner.

The Peña is a tall natural monument that is the world’s third largest. You could see people up near the top, and I would normally want to hike it, but with the altitude, and… ahem… me being lazy, we opted just to stroll around town.

The fore-mentioned castle is actually a hotel and spa. I nice place from what we saw, I would stay here.

One of the attractions we ran across was the museum of masks. Very interesting collection of masks from around the world from many different eras…

Day 83 – Huasca de Ocampo

Huasca de Ocampo is a Pueblo Mágico and is situated just outside of the El Chico national park. It is about an hour and about 2,000′ lower in elevation from where we were camped. Because of its close proximity to Pachuca and its relatively close proximity to Mexico City, this region is very popular with Mexicans for all sorts of outdoor activities. When we visited the area, we saw very few foreign tourists, but the streets were packed with Mexican tourists. This is great to see, as over the last 5-10 years, the growth of the middle class in Mexico has afforded more an more local tourism.

The town itself is a quaint little town with many, many summer cabins. The downtown section is six square blocks and is easy to navigate. But like all small towns, parking a Super Duty F-350 is a bit difficult.

One of HdO’s claim to fame, is that it was the First town to obtain the Pueblo Mágico status. IMO, the primary reason why HdO got this status was for the UNESCO site, and the outdoor recreation potential the area has.

UNESCO Site

Just outside of town, there is a UNESCO site, Las Prismas Basálticos. This site is located at a Balneario or a “spa”. It’s mostly a water park, or community swimming pool, situated on the downstream side of the town’s reservoir. This is a bit different than most balnearios as this one is full of tourist shops, restaurants and vendors. Aside from the pools and sports courts that are here for people to enjoy and have events, there is also a river that runs through the park. The river comes out of the reservoir and is in a canyon about 100-150 meters deep. The canyon starts from the reservoir dam, runs through the park and on its way. The canyon walls are why it is a UNESCO site. The walls are tall hexagonal basaltic columns ranging from 2-4′ in diameter and as tall as the canyon walls. They are all broken off at various points to give the impression that you could play Q*Bert on them.

It certainly is a wonder and deserves to be on the UNESCO list. However…

As you look down, you don’t immediately notice the color of the water, as the numerous waterfalls flowing makes you think it’s just the churning of the water that discolors the water. But as you walk down the steps into the canyon and start getting sprayed by the fine mist, you recognize the unique smell of sewage. The reservoir is highly polluted and as it flows into the river and thus canyon, so too are they polluted. As soon as I realized this, I ran back out of the canyon and ewww… I just wanted to take a shower at that point. Anyway, beautiful YES – best to view from the top.

Gnomes, Trolls, and Elves

In the area of El Chico National Park, it is largely a mining area of which the Spanish started mining in the early 16th century. Shortly thereafter, the Cornish came over and had their take at extracting ore from the mountains. Because of this, the whole area has English superstitions about gnomes, trolls, elves, and basically other fey to explain the unexplained. HdO has many, many theme parks and museums focusing on these superstitions. Most of them are over the top. My take on this, was that it could have been done much better, but the way this one theme park was done, they want you to believe that they are true believers, but they fill the park with cheap Chinese plastic gnomes. There’s just no way any reasonable person could do anything other than laugh – and run away a fast as possible.

Day 81 – El Chico

El Chico is the oldest national park in Mexico, founded in the late 1800’s. There are three Pueblos Mágicos nearby…

Mineral del Chico

Mineral del Chico is a town located in the state of Hidalgo, Mexico. It has a long and rich history that spans several centuries. Here is a detailed history of Mineral del Chico:

Pre-Columbian Era:
The area around Mineral del Chico was inhabited by indigenous peoples long before the arrival of the Spanish. The Otomi and Tepehua were among the native groups who lived in the region, engaging in agriculture and trade.

Spanish Conquest and Colonial Period:
The Spanish arrived in the region in the early 16th century, seeking to conquer and colonize new territories. Mineral del Chico was officially founded in 1572 by Spanish settlers as a mining town due to the discovery of silver and other minerals in the area.

The Spanish established mining operations in Mineral del Chico, extracting silver, gold, lead, and other valuable minerals. The town quickly grew in importance as one of the main mining centers in colonial Mexico. Mining activities brought significant wealth and prosperity to the town and the surrounding region.

In the colonial period, the town’s architectural heritage began to take shape, with the construction of religious buildings and colonial-style houses. The Church of San Nicolás de Tolentino, built in the 18th century, is one of the prominent historical landmarks in Mineral del Chico.

Independence and Post-Independence Period:
During the early 19th century, Mexico fought for and gained its independence from Spanish rule. The mining industry in Mineral del Chico faced challenges during this period of political instability. The town experienced changes in ownership and management of mining operations.

Modern Era and Decline of Mining:
In the 20th century, Mineral del Chico’s mining activities gradually declined due to various factors, including the exhaustion of some mineral deposits and changes in the global mining industry. Many mines were eventually abandoned.

Tourism and Conservation:
In the latter half of the 20th century, the town’s historical and natural attractions began to draw attention from tourists and conservationists. Mineral del Chico’s charming colonial architecture, historical buildings, and scenic landscapes, including the surrounding forests and mountains, became important assets for tourism.

The town’s proximity to the El Chico National Park, established in 1898 and Mexico’s first national forest reserve, further enhanced its appeal as a destination for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Today, Mineral del Chico is known as a quaint and picturesque town with a unique blend of colonial heritage and natural beauty. Its historical significance, combined with its outdoor recreational opportunities, continues to attract visitors seeking to explore Mexico’s rich history and enjoy its natural landscapes. The town remains an important part of Hidalgo’s cultural and tourism offerings, preserving its past while embracing its future.

The Legend of the Casa de las Brujas

The legend of the Witches’ House (La Casa de las Brujas) in Mineral del Chico is a popular and intriguing local tale that adds to the town’s mystique and attracts curious visitors. According to the legend, the Witches’ House was once the residence of a powerful and secretive coven of witches who practiced their dark arts in the area.

The story goes that many years ago, the Witches’ House was inhabited by a group of witches who were feared and respected by the local community. These witches were said to possess supernatural powers and practiced ancient rituals and spells, often performing their ceremonies under the cover of darkness.

As the legend goes, the witches’ presence in the town created a sense of fear and mystery among the townspeople. Some believe that the witches would cast spells on unsuspecting individuals, causing misfortune or illness.

The Witches’ House itself is said to have an eerie and foreboding atmosphere, with its dark and sinister appearance adding to the legend’s intrigue. The legends mention tales of strange lights, mysterious sounds, and apparitions surrounding the house, further fueling the belief in its magical and haunted nature.

Over time, the legend of the Witches’ House has become an integral part of Mineral del Chico’s folklore, attracting tourists and thrill-seekers intrigued by tales of the supernatural. While the exact origins of the legend are unclear, it has become an important aspect of the town’s cultural heritage, contributing to its unique identity as a place of both history and mystery. Whether one believes in the paranormal or not, the legend of the Witches’ House adds to the enchanting ambiance of Mineral del Chico and leaves visitors with an unforgettable experience.

The Legend of Las Monjas

The legend of the nuns in the rock formation (Las Monjas) in Mineral del Chico is another captivating tale that adds to the town’s charm and intrigue. According to the legend, the rock formation known as “Las Monjas” (The Nuns) is said to resemble a group of nuns gathered together in prayer or conversation.

The story goes that long ago, during the colonial period, a group of nuns sought refuge in the hills of Mineral del Chico to escape religious persecution. These nuns were from a nearby convent and were hiding from authorities who sought to suppress their religious practices.

As the nuns took shelter among the rocks, they were believed to have formed a circle, symbolizing their unity and solidarity in the face of adversity. Over time, the rocks slowly transformed into the shape of nuns, creating the striking and recognizable rock formation known as “Las Monjas.”

The legend adds an air of mystery and reverence to the rock formation, making it a significant landmark for both locals and visitors. It is said that the spirit of the nuns still resides within the rocks, and some believe that their prayers and blessings can be felt by those who visit the site.

As with many legends, the story of the nuns in the rock formation in Mineral del Chico is passed down through generations, often blending historical events with elements of folklore and imagination. While the actual origin of the rock formation may be geological, the legend has become an integral part of the town’s cultural heritage and continues to capture the imagination of those who come to witness the impressive sight of “Las Monjas.”

Alebrije Museum – Cholula

As luck would have it, during our two-week down-time, we stumbled across the Museo Regional de Cholula – a history museum of Cholula and the immediate area. This museum had much of the same information we have already seen at other historical museums in central Mexico, but with a Cholulan flavor or twist.

One of the most exiting exhibits that we stumbled across was the Alebrije Parade, or Desfile de Alebrijes. Since I have an affinity towards them, I am sharing…